Ulu Kitchen by Merriman: Where Land Meets Plate

At Ulu Kitchen by Merriman, nestled within the vibrant culinary scene of Maui, Executive Chef Brandon LaClair is doing more than just preparing exquisite meals, he's rekindling interest in one of the islands' most storied crops: ‘ulu, or breadfruit.

“I grew up on the East Coast, raised on seafood and local vegetables,” Brandon shares. “That upbringing shaped the way I view food: fresh, seasonal, and rooted in place.” After graduating from Johnson and Wales University in 2002, Brandon dove headfirst into Chicago’s elite steakhouse kitchens before making a life-altering move to Hawai‘i in 2014. Over the past decade, he’s risen through the ranks under the mentorship of Chef Peter Merriman, taking the helm as Executive Chef at Monkeypod Kitchen Ka’anapali in 2017, and most recently leading the charge at Ulu Kitchen, the sixth addition to the Handcrafted Restaurants ‘ohana.

And at Ulu Kitchen, it’s not just a name, it’s a commitment.

“Obviously, as Ulu Kitchen being our namesake, it’s important to us to be able to showcase this beautiful crop in many different applications and techniques,” Brandon says. “The beauty of the ‘ulu tree is second to none. It’s more than just food – it’s a symbol of resourcefulness and connection.”

Chef Brandon and his team have developed several techniques for incorporating ‘ulu into their menu, each one honoring its versatility and flavor. “We started with a simple ‘ulu mash and found that adding a bit of Yukon potato helped with texture. From there, we moved into sautéing partially cooked ‘ulu in butter and spices—this is what we use in our Coconut Corn and ‘Ulu Chowder and our Mushroom and ‘Ulu Pot Pie. The flavor is subtle, but the creamy texture really shines.”



One of the most elegant expressions of this local staple is found in a chilled vichyssoise. “We fully cook and puree it for a cold soup that really brings out the natural sweetness of the ‘ulu itself,” he says. It’s a dish that not only delights but invites diners into a deeper story, of the land, the people, and the resurgence of traditional food systems.

LaClair’s partnership with the Hawai‘i ‘Ulu Cooperative is more than a culinary collaboration, it’s a values-aligned movement. “The Co-op is doing an amazing job of bringing back ‘ulu in a sustainable way. What they’re doing ensures that many more professional and at-home chefs will get to work with it for generations to come.”

For Brandon, supporting the Co-op’s mission of food sovereignty and sustainability is a natural extension of what he’s always believed: high-quality ingredients, locally sourced, prepared with respect. “We are very passionate here at Ulu Kitchen about showcasing local food whenever possible,” he affirms. “The return of ‘ulu is about more than flavor—it’s about reconnecting with culture and creating a resilient food future for Hawai‘i.”

As diners enjoy his thoughtfully crafted dishes, many may not realize that every bite tells a story of a chef who came from far away, but found his culinary home in honoring the wisdom of the past in his current place, the abundance of the present, and the possibilities of the future. And at the center of it all? A humble, extraordinary fruit with deep roots and even deeper meaning.

Address: 2365 Kaanapali Pkwy, Lahaina, HI 96761
Phone: (808) 868-0081

Hours: Open 7am-9pm everyday

www.ulukitchen.com