It was hot with the faintest hint of breeze as Ethan Doctor drove a pickup truck down a bumpy road on his family’s 215-acre ranch in Kalapana. In one of the paddocks, a few dozen cows rested in the shade of a tall Hawaiian ulu (breadfruit) tree. Calves no more than 2 months old stood by their mothers. A bull with curving horns stared at a group of visitors as their feet crunched over broken lava rock.
One cow munched on a broad ulu leaf.